Jocelyn Silver, Watch A$AP Rocky Getting His Life at Gucci, Paper Magazine, 22 Sept 2019
Today, Sunday, in Milan, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele delivered a sanitarium-inspired show, and a statement on capitalism and sanity and whether or not the two can actually co-exist. The show notes (written by Michele’s partner Giovanni Attili, an urban planning professor) quoted Michel Foucault and questioned the purpose of the fashion industry itself.
“Can [fashion] offer itself as an instrument of resistance?” Attili wrote. “Can it suggest experimental freedom, ability to transgress and disobey, emancipation and self-determination? Or [is] fashion itself [at risk] to become a refined device of neo-liberal government that ends up imposing a new normativity, turning freedom into a commodity and emancipation into a broken promise?”
It’s probably the latter. But as great and gutsy as the show was (we love a Girl, Interrupted moment) Gucci is still a business that needs to sell things, and so there were tons of celebrities in the front row.
See also The Fashion Press Release Has Become the Manifesto. GQ
“that microphysics of powers that permeates our existences”!
A few designers are bucking the cliches. That microphysics quote came from Gucci, which created a stir on social media during its Sunday show with its brief, almost inscrutably dense press release. It also name-dropped the French social theorist Michel Foucault and proposed fashion as a tool of self-expression—a tool “to let people walk through fields of possibilities, giving hints and evoking openness, cultivating promises of beauty, offering testimonies and prophecies, sacralizing every form of diversity, feeding indispensable self-determination skills.” The militant intellectual, it seems, is the new influencer.
See also this article in Pink News by Josh Milton
this article in The Guardian
The New York Times
In the welcome note emailed to attendees, the designer had name-checked Michel Foucault (source of Erterotopia or, in English, Herterotopia, and refers to Foucault’s worlds within worlds) and his theory of “biophysics” and the way the power of the dominant social group that “imposes conducts and paths, that prescribes thresholds of normality.”
And from 2018
Gucci put turbans on white models and explained it with cyborgs and Foucault 02.23.18